Hi folks! So it’s been a week or two since how to make beer part 1, and you must be wondering what to do next. Just in time, here I am with the rest of the story.
You’ve surely noticed that your fermenting beer makes a lot of noise as it releases pressure through the airlock. However, after a week or two that noise will stop. You can take readings, but Quiet Earp says you really just need to wait until it’s been quiet for a few days. Then you’re ready to start bottling!
- Auto-siphon. This is a pump dealie that starts the siphoning action to move your beer from one container to another. This is important because you don’t want to put your bacteria-filled mouth on your tubing. It keeps everything sanitary and working well. Earp says this is WORTH THE MONEY (unless you want bad-tasting beer)
- Bottling wand – also WORTH THE MONEY. This is designed to fit into the bottle, and it has a valve that only opens when you press it against something, e.g. the bottom of the bottle. This allows you to start and stop the flow of beer, so you can fill bottles accurately without spilling precious ale everywhere.
- Food-grade vinyl tubing, 4-5 feet long. It should be a diameter that will fit your auto-siphon and your bottling wand.
- 60 bottle caps or so
- 60 bottles or so. You can buy bottles new, but why would you do that? Just re-use old beer bottles. They should not be screw-on caps, and you need to clean and sanitize them. Use a bottle brush to get all the goop out of the inside, then sanitize them using iodophor, boiling water or bleach (iodophor is the best because you don’t have to rinse them or deal with a large amount of boiling water).
Your bucket of beer should be about 5.5 gallons if you followed our method, which will net about 55 bottles of beer. If you did a standard 5-gallon recipe, you’ll get about 48 bottles’ worth.
How To Brew Beer, Part 2:
Click the photos!
originally published June 21, 2010